Die Erstbesteigung des Broad Peak 8047m durch die österreichische ÖAV Karakorum Expedition 1957 ohne Sauerstoffgeräte, ohne Hochträger, ohne Basislagerhilfe am 9. Juni 1957 durch Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger und Hermann Buhl.  
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Diary excerpt of June 9, 1957 © Fritz Wintersteller

The II. Attack to the Summit (June 9, 1957)

Whit Sunday and no clouds in the sky. We could not have it any better. We leave the camp at 4:00. Until now we have the warmth of the sleeping bags in us. Soon crawls the cold into our limbs. The temperature is minus 30°. We get cold, although we are well dressed and we climb continuously. Marcus and I traverse to the old route, while Hermann and Kurt climb on the right side of the slope. At 8:30 we are at 7550m at the large crevasse. We are now 2 hours earlier than the last time. Here we warm up our toes in the sun. Again we continue and underneath the col we meet the other two, who have frozen toes also. Marcus and I lead the 300m trail to the col and the whole summit ridge together. At 16:00 we are on the West peak and at 17:05 on the 10m higher East peak. Kurt comes there also at 17:45. We meet Hermann at the West peak on the way back. At 20:00 I am back at Camp III. Marcus comes at 20:30. Hermann and Kurt just after midnight.

Please see the German version Tagebücher where you can find more original texts of the climbing diaries of Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller and reference to the book, "Achttausend drüber und drunter", Malik 2005, where Hermann Buhl's, diaries are transcribed.

 

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